Tuesday, March 18, 2003                       Odessa, TX to Clovis, NM
By the time I got on the road, the previous night's rains had all but evaporated, leaving behind only a cold front. The chill discouraged me from bicycling. Besides, my vacation time was running out and I had many counties to visit. First, I drove through Odessa and neighboring Midland.
This colorful mural caught my eye in Odessa. |
Midland's Greyhound station featured this classic sign. |
I drove a bit north then way south collecting counties, and  four hours later I found myself in Big Spring. I was hungry for some good Texas barbecue, and Al's & Son did not disappoint.
Al's & Son Bar-B-Q was excellent. |
After a satisfying lunch, I headed north into the panhandle region. Ranch Road 669 took me to Gail. I have fond memories of Gail from my cross-country ride in 2002. Oddly enough, I remember Gail not for what happened there, but because nothing happened there. It was Easter Sunday, and the town was virtually deserted. Ever since, whenever I was feeling restless and couldn't sleep, I would picture myself back there in Gail, in complete solitude on a sunny spring day. It worked most of the time. For a photo tour of Gail from that trip, click here.
Gail wasn't much more active this Tuesday than it had been on Easter a year earlier. A couple stores were open, but the streets were quiet. After briefly reminiscing, I continued north toward Post.
Here in the panhandle, driveways went on forever. |
I imagined Great Pyrenees running around with frightened Chihuahuas underfoot. |
Just north of Post on US 84, a pick-up pulled alongside me. The passenger made a circle with his hands. I cluelessly assumed that he was noting the bicycle tires in my backseat. It was only a mile later that I realized that maybe he was trying to tell me I had a flat tire.
I pulled over onto the shoulder, and sure enough, my right rear was flat. No sweat, I thought. Since this is a rental car, they'll take care of it for me. I called Alamo and learned that this was not the case. I was responsible for anything that could be attributed to a road hazard. I was given three options. I could change the tire and drive back to Chicago, but that meant I would have to drive 55 mph on the space-saver spare. The best option was to change the tire, get the flat fixed and request reimbursement from Alamo. Reimbursement was not their policy, but the operator would make a note since I was " a good customer" (actually, it was my first rental ever from Alamo). The most ridiculous idea was to change the tire and drive to their location at  Lubbock International Airport where I could exchange my car for another. Alamo would still have to fix the tire anyway, so why hassle with putting me in a different car? Besides, I didn't want to pack up and move everything to another car just because of a flat tire. When I later  told this story to a Hertz service rep, he was amazed. He said that if I had rented from Hertz, they would have sent someone out to fix it for me on the spot for free.
I emptied a bunch of stuff out of the trunk to access the space-saver spare tire. I hadn't had a flat on a car in at least ten years, but I did okay changing it. The next town was Slaton, and I got off US 84 to try my luck getting the tire fixed. It was 4:30 PM, so I got there just in time, while businesses were still open. I found a small garage run by two men. This was the first time I watched  a pro repair a tire. One man put the tire on a machine, and < wham-wham-wham> popped it off the wheel. He patched the hole, then < wham-wham-wham> popped the tire back into the wheel. Then he jacked up the car, removed the space-saver and installed the fixed tire. It wasn't quite as fast as a NASCAR pit stop, but it was surprisingly quick and efficient.  When the other told me it would cost $8, I was so happy that it was so cheap (I wouldn't bother to seek reimbursement) that I gave  him $10. He said thanks and, glancing at the clock on the wall, told his partner that tonight they'd have beers on me. I was in and out of there in fifteen minutes.
With that little bump in the road out of the way, I drove west from Slaton, skirting the south side of Lubbock to avoid rush hour there. At least I didn't have to drive to the airport.
It was nearly sundown when I drove through Sundown, TX. |
These fantastic clouds foretold of a rainy night's driving. |
As the sun set, I remembered something else that I should have thought of back in Slaton--gas. I was running low, and more importantly, I was out in the middle of nowhere. I managed to nurse it into Littlefield, but barely. When I got back on US 84, it started to drizzle. I drove up to Muleshoe, then west into New Mexico. I added two more counties in that state before stopping at the Motel 6 in Clovis.
I wanted to head north to Colorado then east toward home, but the weather forecast for Wednesday was a Townes Van Zandt song: " Snowin' On Raton." There were also snowstorms over  the Great Plains.  Under those circumstances, I would be wiser to go east toward Arkansas  then north instead. I would have to be content collecting Texas and Oklahoma counties.
Artist of the Day: Robert Earl Keen, Jr. - I had three of his best CD's with me on this trip (Picnic, Gringo Honeymoon and Gravitational Forces), and I heard him a lot on the radio, too. As I chowed down on beef brisket during lunch at Al's & Son Bar-B-Q, I thought of   Keen's song " Barbeque" :
Then the jukebox played another  of his songs, " I'm Comin' Home." With just two more days remaining on my trip, the timing couldn't have been better.
Honorable Mention: The Gourds - These guys are in a class by themselves. Their own material is clever and irreverent. They do interesting versions of others' songs, too. Their cover of Snoop Dogg's " Gin & Juice" is the ultimate example of this--imagine hillbilly gangsta rap. The Gourds teamed up with Doug Sahm in 1998 for " Get A Life" on S.D.Q. '98.
Return to Texas 2003: Day By Day
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